SANDI TRAVELS: OAXACA, MEXICO
I spent 4 days in Oaxaca in last month to celebrate a friend’s 40th birthday. This was my fourth trip to Mexico, and each time I leave wanting more and eager to return.
How to Get There
There are very few non-stop flight options from the USA to Oaxaca, with the nonstop flights only out of Dallas (American Airlines), Houston (United Airlines) and Los Angeles (Volaris).
From Chicago, we flew via Dallas into Xoxocotlán International Airport (OAX). Flight prices weren’t bad - approximately $525 roundtrip.
On arrival, once you clear immigration and customs, there is a taxi stand inside the airport. There are two options: collectivo (group transfer) and private. We opted to walk about 7-10 minutes to a less expensive taxi stand just outside the airport walls. It cost us MEX$300 for 4 people and it took about 25 minutes to get to our hotel in Oaxaca city.
When to Go
The dry season - which spans from late October to early May - is typically the best time to visit Oaxaca. The days are warm and the nights are cool, which makes it ideal for all the walking you will do! Keep in mind that during major festivals like Dia de los Muertos (which happens in late October.- early November), Oaxaca will be more crowded and flights and hotels will be more expensive.
Where to Stay
Hotel Parador de Alcala is a cute boutique hotel with only 21 rooms, perfectly and conveniently located in the old town of Oaxaca city. While somewhat unassuming on the outside in keeping with building codes and regulations, it was stately on the inside with porcelain tiles and high vaulted ceilings. Hubby and I stayed in the Superior room. We had a very comfortable stay - the included breakfast was delicious, the staff was spectacular and did I mention the location? It can’t be beat.
How to Get Around
Oaxaca’s city center is very pedestrian-friendly, therefore it is easy to explore on foot. Many of the city’s shops, restaurants, museums and other attractions are within walking distance of each other. If you need a car, there are taxis easily available to hail, as well as a convenient ride-sharing app called Didi.
What To Do
WALKING TOUR OF oaxaca
Oaxaca is a colourful, picturesque city and we were lucky to absorb the pulse and essence of this city through our amazing local guide, Djannh. He was incredibly knowledgeable and insightful about the history of the region as well as the traditions and culture that shape Oaxaca. Our tour was about 2 hours long and we walked a lot, but it was very enjoyable and educational.
Cost: Free (but tips expected)
VISIT MONTE ALBÁN
Atop a 1,300-foot tall plateau sits Monte Albán: a UNESCO World Heritage site, the largest Zapotec city and the second-largest ceremonial site in Central America, home to a well-preserved terraced pyramid and other cultural artifacts.
As explained by or tour guide, much of the ruins visible only represented about 10% - 15% of what the ancient site looked like in its prime. The Zapotecs were thought to have settled in the region as early as 500 B.C.E, however it was abandoned by the Zapotecs around 700 CE after the city's political influence declined. It was later occupied by the Mixtecs (and later by the Aztecs) until it fell into ruin around the Spanish conquest.
Opening times: 8AM - 5PM Daily
Cost: We went through Get Your Guide for our tour with Francesco, and had to pay an additional MEX$95 entrance fee at the site.
DO A MEZCAL TASTING AT LA MEZCALOTECA
Mezcal is a distilled spirit made with agave and is traditional to the Oaxacan region. Approximately 30 varieties of the agave plant are used to make mezcal and in Oaxaca, production is largely an artisanal process, with maestros utilizing centuries-old techniques that are removed from modern technology.
We decided to do a tasting at La Mezcaloteca in the heart of downtown Oaxaca city where we tried 10 different mezcals and learned a lot about the history and hard work that goes behind mezcal production. It was an enriching experience!
Cost: MEX$720
SHOPPING AT TLACOLULA MARKET
With our trusted tour guides Julio and Cristal, we drove to Tlacolula, a small town in the Oaxacan valley about 30 minutes outside of Oaxaca city. Tlacolula has the oldest and largest market in the region, and every Sunday, sellers from neighboring villages - dressed in their traditional attire and speaking different languages - converge at Tlacolula to sell their wares.
It is both an indoor and outdoor market, activating all of your senses as soon as you step foot in the premises: the smell of freshly roasted cacao, the aroma of grilled meats, the sounds of thousands of people bustling and hustling. We tried a foamy traditional coffee and delicious barbacoa.
Our adventurous spirits also prompted us to try a popular Oaxacan snack - chapulines (fried grasshoppers). I was too busy soaking in the culture and atmosphere that I didn’t even actually get to purchase anything. But if you are looking for stereotypical souvenirs like magnets and tshirts, look elsewhere. I love that the market did not cater to tourists and I hope it stays that way.
MORE SHOPPING AT MERCADO DE 20TH NOVIEMBRE & MERCADO DE BENITO JUÁREZ
I did most of my shopping in these markets, only a few minutes walk from the Zócalo of Oaxaca city. Mercado 20 de Noviembre is famous for its variety of food stalls featuring everything from baked goods and pastries to an entire street of roasted meats, El Pasillo de Humo. We ordered a variety of meats (carne, chorizo & carnitas) that were freshly cooked. We went on to the other markets to shop; I got a handwoven jacket, magnets, shot glasses, coffee mugs, mezcalina, pillow covers and a backpack. All of that for only $75. A bargain!
Where to Eat & Drink
Very rarely do I eat Mexican food outside of Mexico because I find it is watered down to fit a more bland, American palate. But when I am in Mexico, I make sure I indulge and indulge often! The food we had was outstanding and one of the highlights of the trip. I ate to my heart’s content.
1.Moogoñé - Cocina de época
A great, airy restaurant that is only a 10 minute walk from the zócalo that specializes in traditional Oaxacan dishes. Recommended: costillar en salsa borracha, moogoñe cocktail
2. Brio Cocina Local
Innovative Oaxacan dishes with modern flair in a beautiful terraced restaurant overlooking the Templo de San Agustín. Recommended: tuetano a la leña, pulpo a la leña, pastel de queso vasco
3. Las Quince Letras
This is a fine dining restaurant that specializes in traditional Oaxacan cuisine, particularly mole. Recommended: plato oaxaqueño
4. Selva Oaxaca Cocktail Bar
With its inventive cocktails and chic ambiance, I understand why Selva was voted one of the top 50 bars in the world. Recommended: blossom blush
5. Terraza Istmo
This rooftop restaurant is a hidden gem, offering authentic Oaxacan cuisine from the Istmo region. Recommended: tostadas de carne de res, mezcalina
6. Tika’aya
With no menu in sight, this small, fine dining establishment provides a photogenic and delicious 6-course tasting menu that changes daily.
7. Tizne
Located in the heart of Oaxaca’s historic district and set in a charming colonial courtyard, this is where I tried mole Amarillo for the first time. Our waitress Liliana was super. Recommended: mole tileño, hibiscus mezcalina
8. Tacos Roy
Tacos Roy seemed to be a favorite local spot and we understand why - cheap and tasty!
When I think of the soul of Mexico, Oaxaca rises to the top of the list. She is now imprinted in my heart. It was a great experience and can’t wait to return someday soon!
Have you visited Oaxaca? Let me know if you have and what I have to check out on my next trip!
Sandi 🖤
